The difficult period of the Second World War was characterized, in cosmetics as in many other domains, by the research for substitutes.
Due to shortages of soap and glycerin, research for substitutes developed. Thus, plants containing saponin (Saponaria officinalis, gypsophile or quillajia saponaria) and/or alkaline alginates (from algae) were fixed on
minerals such as kaolin, clay or talc and constituted new detersive products. The first synthetic emulsifiers based on fatty substances and polyols (monolaurate, sorbitan monostearate) were also developed. As they were
non-ionic, lipophiles, often moistening, they opened a new way for the stabilization of emulsions. Pectin gels, gelose and alginates started being used in cosmetics. The formulas were lighter, less rich, and natural
colorants formed the base of makeup products.
