Towards a new era (1)

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After the war, life progressively resumed its normal course. Research was at last free to develop. Emile Mahler, from the laboratory Gattefossé in Lyons, presented physicochemistry as a method to characterize creams (nature of the continuous phase, structure, hardness, resistance to desiccation). He thus introduced rheology [1] as a science in the cosmetic industry at a time when new compact and stable emulsions based on self-emulsifying waxes were first created.

Around 1948 another pioneer, Pierre Vélon, from Lancôme SA research laboratory, developed the use of a series of characterizations of cosmetic products (iodine value [2] hydroxyl value [3], viscosity, wetting capacity [4] etc.) and provided care advice based on the three following imperatives: “balancing, protecting, cleansing.”

Portrait of Emile Mahler. Industrie de la parfumerie, 1947.

 
BIU Santé Pharmacie : cote P 10069.

Measuring the"hardness" of cosmetic products. "Mesures de la dureté des produits cosmétiques", par Emile Mahler. Industrie de la parfumerie, 1946.

 
BIU Santé Pharmacie : cote P 10069.

Portrait of Pierre Vélon. Parfumerie, Cosmétique, Savons, 1969.

 
BIU Santé Pharmacie : cote P10167.

About measure in cosmetic rheology. Pierre Vélon, "Les mesure en rhéologie cosmétique". Parfumerie, Cosmétique, Savons, 1969.

 
BIU Santé Pharmacie : cote P 10167.

Advertising for make-up mold. La Parfumerie moderne, 1949.

 
BIU Santé Pharmacie : cote P 15270.

Invoice header of L’Oreal which mentions the hair dye range "Imédia", launched in 1929.

About L'Oréal
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×Rheology: science of the flow and deformation of matter (viscosity, consistence).
×Iodine value: index used to determine the amount of unsaturation in fatty acids via the measurement of iodine fixation.
×Hydroxyl value: index used to characterize the number of hydroxyl groups present infat, and therefore its relative hydrophilicity (ability to combine with or attract water).
×Wetting : refers to the shape a more or less liquid substance adopts on a surface.