Cosmetics incorporated biology for its activity and its safety

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Cosmetic products stopped being mere vehicles for perfume or beautifying means: they interacted with a living tissue, i.e. the skin. There was at the time a growing awareness of the intolerance effects some totally new products might entail. The first safety tests were thus conducted on animals (rats and rabbits). A few year later, the first in vitro tests to evaluate extracts on cultures of lactic bacteria and newt eggs were proposed by Jean Cotte, hospital pharmacist, who later created the laboratory of dermopharmacy and cosmetology at the Faculty of Pharmacy in Lyons. As early as 1970, Monique Adolphe developed the first cell cultures, as well as alternative methods to animal experimentation.

Biochemistry knowledge of skin, by Jean Morelle. "La connaissance de la biochimie de la peau …", par Jean Morelle. Industrie de la parfumerie, 1953.

 
BIU Santé Pharmacie : cote P 10063.

Anatomy of skin sensitivity. "L’anatomie de la sensibilité cutanée", d’après G. Weddel, La Parfumerie moderne, 1948.

 
BIU Santé Pharmacie : cote P 15270.

Advertising for Isabelle Lancray cream. Guide des industries de la parfumerie. Paris: éditions Publi-Guid, 1950-1951.

 
BIU Santé Pharmacie : cote P 50155-1950/1951.

Histochemistry section of skin. Histochimie de la peau …, par le docteur André Dupré. La Parfumerie moderne, 1955.

 
BIU Santé Pharmacie : cote P 15270. © Société française de cosmétologie.
 
René-Maurice Gattefossé introduced the notion of “clinical study of beauty products.” He demonstrated that some products have an activity on the “lower layers” of the skin. The latter was actually considered as a living tissue that “facilitates the circulation of nutritious bodies. These new data opened the way to further cosmetic research that focused more and more on understanding the biological mechanisms of the healthy skin.

Histologic section of skin.

 
© LVMH Recherche.

Human fibroblasts culture.

 
© LVMH Recherche.

University of Lyons: the new faculty of medicine and pharmacy.

 
BIU Santé Médecine : image CISA 0988.